TYBSC Home Sc Textile and Fashion Technology1 1 Syllabus Mumbai University


TYBSC Home Sc Textile and Fashion Technology1 1 Syllabus Mumbai University by munotes

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AC 24/6/16
Item no. 4.60









U NIVE RSIT Y OF MU MBAI





















Syllabus

for

S EMESTER V and VI

Program: B.Sc.

Course: Home Science

BRANCH III: TEXTILE AND FAS HION T ECHNOLOGY


(Credit Bas ed Semester an d Gradin g System

with eff ect from the Academic Year 2013 –20 14)

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T. Y. B. Sc. (HOME SCIENCE)

BRANCH III: TEXTILE AND FASHION TECHNOLOGY

SEMESTER V

Course Code Title Internal Semester Total Periods/week Credits
Assessment End marks
Marks Examination
USHSIII501 Part A : Dyeing and 40 60 100 3 3
Printing
Part B: Historic Textiles 40 60 100 3
and Costumes
USHSIII502 Part A: Textile Testing and 40 60 100 3 3
Quality Control
Part B: Marketing and 40 60 100 3
Merchandising
USHSIII503 Fabri c Structure and 40 60 100 3 3
Construction
USHSIIIP501 Dyeing and Printing __ 50 50 3 2

USHSIIIP502 Fabric Structure and __ 50 50 3 2
Construction
USHSIIIP503 Fashion Illustration and __ 50 50 4 2
Pattern Drafting
USHSIIIP5 04 Garment Construction and __ 50 50 4 2
Draping
USHSIIIP505 Part A: Design Concepts __ 50 50 3 3
and Computer Aided
Designing
Part B: __ 50 50 2
Fieldwork/seminar/project
800 34 20

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Course Code Title Periods/week Marks Credits

Part A: Dyeing and Printing 3 100 1
USHSIII501
Part B: Historic Textiles and Costumes 3 100 2


Part A: Dyeing and Printing
Objectives
• To create awareness of the different techniques us ed for coloration of textiles.
• To gain knowledge of Chemistry of dyestuff, their application, processes machines for different fabrics
and their fastness properties.
• To make students aware of recent developments in dyeing with emphasis on ecological conc erns.
Course Content Periods
Unit I Colour and light relationship and dye constituent 15
Dyes and pigments : classification of dyes and pigments based on application
and chemical structures
Colour Index
Evaluation of fastness properties of dye d textile material
Unit II Dyeing : Mechanism of various dyeing processes, application of dyes on 15
various fibres/fabrics, fastness properties and toxicity factors of following dyes:
Synthetic Dyes : (Direct, Azoic, Basic, Vat, Solubilised vat dyes, Sulphur,
Acid, Mordant, Reactive and Disperse)
Natural Dyes : (Classification, their application and ecological concern)
Unit III Garment dyeing 15
Ecological aspects of dyeing (Banned dyes and banned chemicals for dyeing,
eco-friendly chemica ls, auxiliaries and etc.)
Effluent treatment
Recent Development in dyeing – nanotechnology etc.
References
Cegarra, J. P. and Valladperas, J. (1992). The dyeing of textile manual, the scientific bases and the techniques of
application . Italy: Necov aOflito.
Ponting, K. G. (1981). A dictionary of dyes and dyeing . London: Bell and Hymen Ltd.
Rouette, H. K. (2001). Encyclopaedia of textile finishes . Berlin: Springer Verlag.
Shenai, V. A. (1985). Technology of dyeing: Technology of textile processing. Vol.VI,Mumbai: Sevak
Publication.
Shenai, V. A. (1985). Technology of printing: Technology of textile processing. Vol. IV ,Mumbai: Sevak
Publication.
Shenai, V. A. (1998) Toxicity of dyes and intermediates. Mumbai: Sevak Publication.
Shenai, V. A. (1999) . Azo dyes: Facts and figures. Mumbai: Sevak Publication.
Story, J. (1985). The Thames and Hudson manual of textile dyes and fabrics . London: Thames and Hudson.
Story, J. (1985). The Thames and Hudson manual of textile printing . London: Thames and Hudson.
Burkinshaw, S. M. (1995). Chemical principles of synthetic fibre dyeing. Glasgow: Blackie Academic and
Professional.
Vigo, T. L (1997). Textile processing and properties, preparation, dyeing finishing and performance.
Amsterdam: Elsevier Sciences.
Lewis, D.M. (Ed). (1992) Wool dyeing . London: Society of Dyers and Colourist.
Gittenger, M. (1982) Master dyers of the world. Washington: The Textile Museum.
Shenai, V. A. and Saraf, N. (1991) Dictionary of textiles. Mumbai: Sevak Publication.
Prayag, R. S . (1989). Dyeing of wool, silk and manmade fibres . Dharwad: Noves Data Corporation.
Srivastava, S. B. Recent process of textile bleaching, dyeing and finishing . New Delhi: SBP Consultants and
Engineers.
Gulrajani, M. L. and Gupta, S. (1990) Wool dyeing a nd printing . New Delhi: Department of Textile
Technology IIT.

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David G, Sinclair, Roy, S. (1989). Giles laboratory course in dyeing (4th Ed.) London: Society of Dyers and
Colourist.
Koshy, T. D. (2001). Silk production and export management . New Delhi: A. P.H Publishing Corporation.

Part B: Historic Textiles and Costumes
Objectives
• To acquaint the students with the rich heritage of textiles of the world.
• To acquaint the students with the care and preservation of textiles.
Course Content Periods
Unit I Care and preservation of textiles 15
Textiles of the ancient world
Mediterranean
Central and Northern Europe
Western Europe : Italian, Spanish and French
Unit II The Near and Middle East: Sassanian textiles; early Islamic textiles, Byzantine s ilks, 15
Central Asian textiles
The Far East : China and Japan
Unit III Textiles ofAmerica: Colonial North America, Native North America and Latin American 15
English and American textiles: Basic cloth, Revolution Exuberance and Renaissance
Refe rences
Boucher F. (1987) 2000 years of fashion: The history of costume and personalAdornment, New York: Harry
and Abrams Inc. publishers.
Dar, S. N. (1969) Costumes of India and Pakistan , D. B. Taraporewala Sons and Co, Bombay
Doreen Y. (1992 ) Fashion in the western world, 1500 -1900 , B T Batsford Ltd, London.
Fas, (1997) Fashion Design 1850 -1895 , The Pepin Press, Amsterdam.
Harris, J (1993) 5000 years of Textiles , British Museum, London.
Hart, A (1998) Historical Fashion in Detail - The 17th and 18th Cent uries , V andA. Publications, London .
Hill M H. (1987) The Evolution of Fashion 1066 to 1930 , B T Batsford Ltd, London.
LehnertGertoud, 2000, A history of Fashion in the 20th Century , KonemannVerlagsellschaftMbh,
Cologne. Peacock J. (1993) 20th Century Fas hion - The Complete Source Book , Thames and Hudson
Ltd., London. Peacock J. (1997) Fashion Source book - The 1930's , Thames and Hudson Ltd., London.
Peacock J. (1997) Fashion Source book - The 1950's , Thames and Hudson Ltd., London.
Peacock J. (1997) Fashio n Source book - The 1970's , Thames and Hudson Ltd., London.
Peacock J. (1998) Fashion Source book - The 1960's , Thames and Hudson Ltd., London.
Racinet, A (1998) The Historical encyclopaedia of costumes , Studio editions, London: Illustrat.
Racinet, A (2000) The history of European Costume: Period, Styles and Accessories, London: Collins and
Brown Ltd.
Rocinet A (2006) The Complete Costume History , Tashen, Koln.
Rothstein, N (Ed.) (1984 ) Four Hundred years of Fashion , V and A Publications, London.
Seetling C, (2000) Fashion The Century of the Designer 1900 -1999 , KonemannVerlagsellschaftMbh,
Cologne. Turner, W. R. (1989) Folk and Festival Costumes of the World , B T Batsford Ltd., London.

Course Code Title Periods/week Marks Credits

Part A: Textile Test ing and Quality Control 3 100 2
USHSIII502
Part B: Marketing and Merchandizing 3 100 1


Part A: Textile Testing and Quality Control
Objectives
• To make the students aware of the importance of textile testing and quality control.
• To im part knowledge of the physical and mechanical properties of textiles.
• To demonstrate the techniques and principles of testing physical and mechanical properties of textiles.

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Course Content Periods
Unit I Introduction to testing 15
Purpose of testin g
Standards and specifications
Institutes of testing
Quality control and quality marks in India and abroad
Eco-testing, Eco -marks and Eco -certification
Unit II Fibre dimensions and quality 15
Fibre length and measurement for cotton and wool
Fibre fineness measurement and fibre maturity testing for cotton and wool
Moisture relations and testing : Calculations for percentage regain and moisture
content, factors affecting regain, measurement of atmospheric conditions (types of
hygrom eters), effect of regain on fibre properties
UnitIII Yarn dimensions 15
Yarn count and yarn number – direct and indirect system of yarn numbering
Twist and twist measurement
Crimp and yarn crimp measurement
Yarn evenness and hairiness
Yarn numbering problems
References
Angappan P. and Gopalkrishnan R., (2002), Textile testing , Mumbai: S. S. M. Institute of Technology.
Booth J. E., (1996), Principles of textile testing: An introduction to physical methods of testing textile fibres,
yarns and fabrics (6th Ed.). London: NewnesButterworths.
Collier B. J., (1999), Textile testing and analysis , New Jersey: Prentice Hall.
Grover E. B. and Hamby D. S., (1969), Handbook of textile testing and quality control , New Delhi: Wiley
Eastern Ltd.
Handbo ok of textile testing, Bureau of Indian standards, (1990), Testing and grading of textile fibres , Part I,
New Delhi: Bureau of Indian Standards.
Handbook of Textile Testing, (1991), Testing and grading of textile fibres , Part III, New Delhi: Bureau of
Indian Standards.
Handbook of Textile Testing, Part IV, Identification of dyestuff and colour fastness on textile materials .
(1989), New Delhi: Bureau of Indian Standards.
Morton, W. E. andHearle, J. S., (1975), Physical properties of textile fibres , Heinman n: Textile
Institute. Shenai, V. A., (1980), Evaluation of textile chemicals , Mumbai: Sevak
Skinkle, J. H., (1972), Textile testing , Mumbai: Taraporevala.
Trotman, E. R. andTrotman, S. R., (1948), Textile analysis , Glasgow: Charles Griffin.
Wynne A., (1997 ), The motivate series – textiles , London: Macmillan Texts for Industrial Vocational and
Technical Education.

Part B: Marketing and Merchandizing
Objectives
• To help students acquire knowledge and understanding of the basic principles involved in the fie ld
of marketing, and market research.
• To help students understand consumer behaviour.
Course Content Periods
Unit I Introduction and meaning, nature, role, type and scope of market and merchandising 15
and its importance in the modern economy
Changin g profile of market
Marketing: 4 P’s
Product: Product life cycle, standardization and grading, Packaging, Branding and
Advertising
Pricing: Policy and economic concepts in pricing, pricing objectives and strategies,
Physical Distribution: Di fferent types of distribution channel and their importance
Promotion: Meaning, objective, process of communication, promotion strategies, social
aspect of promotion
Unit II 4 C’s : Cost, Consumer, Convenience and Communication 15
Market Research : Market segmentation, scope of market research, steps in the
research process, types of market research

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Unit III Consumer psychology and behaviour : Consumer decisions in the market process, 15
factors affecting consumer’s decision in purchasing, c onsumer aids for right choice
brands, trademarks, quality marks, buying guides with respect to textiles, consumer
service
References
Berkowitz. K., Hartley, R. (1994) Marketing ( 4th Ed)
Daver, R. S. Modern (1992) Marketing Management . Progress ive Corporation
Diamond E. (2006) Fashion Retailing . New Jersey: Pearson Prentice Hall.
Donnellon J. (1999) Merchandizing Buying and Management , New York: Fairfield Publications.
Gandhi, R.S. Mehta, Talele, A.B. ( 1992) De-centralized sector of the Indian textile industry .
NICTAS Publication
Kale, N.G. (1997) Principles and practices of marketing . Mumbai:
VipulPrakashan. Kotler, P. (1998) Marketing Management . India: Prentice Hall.
Kunz G. (2005) Merchandizing: Theory Principles and Practice. New York: F airfield Publications and
Practice.
Sengupta, S. (1990) Brand positioning strategies for competitive advantage . Tata
McGraw Singh (1989). Marketing and consumer behaviour . India: Deep and Deep.
Stanton W.J, Etzel, M.J., andWalker, B.J. (1994). Fundamental of marketing . 10th Ed. McGraw Hill

Course Code Title Periods/week Marks Credits

USHSIII503 Fabric Structure and Construction 3 100 3

Objectives
• To help students learn various fabric construction techniques with reference to consumer and
technical textiles.
• To help students to understand the creation of basic and complex weaves including other methods
of creating visual effects.
• To familiarize students with the various knitted, non -woven and knotted fabrics.
Course Content Periods
Unit I Fabrics made from Fibres, Yarns and Non -Fibrous materials – Properties and Uses 15
Weaving – Introduction, Loom – Parts, Mechanism and Types, Types of Drafts
Unit II Elementary weaves – plain, twill and satin – its derivatives, properties and uses 15
Unit III Complex weaves huck -a-back, honeycomb, mock leno, bed ford cord, welt and pique, 15
extra warp and weft, colour and weave effects, their properties and use.
Recent advances in weaving
References
Ajgaonkar. D.B. (1998) Knitting technology , Mu mbai: Mumbai Universal publishing
corporation Black, M.E. (1966). The key to weaving New York: Macmillan.
Brown, R. (1978). Weaving, spinning and dyeing book . London: Routledge andKegan Paul.
Corbman, B. P. (1983) Fibre to Fabric step by step weaving (6th Ed.) New York: McGraw Hill.
Fannin andAllen. A. (1979). Handloom weaving technology . New York: Van Nostrand Reinhold.
Grosicki, Z. J. (1980). Watson’s textile design and colour . London: Newness Butterworths. Hollen,
Norma. (1988). Textiles . (6th Ed) New Yo rk: Macmillan publishing company.
Kishore, Punett. (1990). Weaving technology in India – Jacquards . New Delhi.
Kulkarni, M. M. (1998). Weaving technology .Jalgaon: Vrinda publications.
Murray, R. (1981). The essential handbook of weaving. London: Bell and
Hyman. Nisbet, H. (1978). Grammar of textile design . Bombay: Taraporewala
Sons. Oelsner, G. H. (1982). A handbook of weaves , New York: Dover.
Plath, I. (1972). The craft of hand -weaving . New York: Clark’s Scribner’s Sons.
Sengupta, R. (1982). Weaving calc ulations . Bombay: D.B. TaraporewalaSons.
Singh, R.B. (1989). Modern Weaving: Theory and Practice . Ahmedabad:
Mahajan. Spencer, D. (1989). Knitting Technology . Cambridge: Woodhead.
Teli, M.D. (1997). Weaving of specialist fabrics . Mumbai: Textile Associati on of India
Thrope, A. (1970). Elements of weaving: A complete introduction to the art and techniques . New York:
Doubleday.
ZnamieRowski, Nell. (1973). A complete introduction to the craft of weaving . London: Pan Bookes Ltd.

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Course Code Title Periods/we ek Marks Credits

USHSIIIP501 Dyeing and Printing 3 50 2

Objectives
• To introduce students to different techniques of coloration of textiles.
• To make students aware of creative methods in dyeing.
• To introduce students to dye identificat ion.
Course Content Periods
Unit I Preparatory treatments – desizing, scouring and bleaching of samples 15
Dyeing of fabric samples using machineries (jigger, padding mangle, launderometer and
etc.)
Preparation of natural dye shade card
Identif ication of dye on cellulosic and protein samples
Unit II Tie-dye techniques and create 6 samples using various fibre content (cotton, nylon, silk, 15
jute, wool and blended) with suitable dye
Unit III Creation of batik 4 samples using various fibre c ontent (cotton, silk, jute and blend) 15
using suitable dye
*Journal / Portfolio
References
Clarke, W. (1977). Introduction to textile printing . London: Newnes Butterworth.
Giles, C .H. and others. (1974). Laboratory course in dyeing .(3rdEd.). England: Society of Dyers and
Colourist. Buchler,A. and Ederbard, F.(1977). Clamp resist dyeing of fabrics. Ahmedabad: Calico Museum of
Textile. Shenai, V. A. (1985). Technology of dyeing: Technology of textile processing. Vol.VI. , Mumbai:
Sevak Publication.
Kulkar ni,S.V.(1986). Textile dyeing operations . New Jersey: Noyes Publication.
David G, Sinclair, Roy, S. (1989) Giles laboratory course in dyeing (4th Ed.) London: Society of Dyers and
Colourist.
D’Souza, N. (1998). Fabric care . India: New Age International.
Shenai, V. A. (1985). Technology of printing: technology of textile processing. Vol. IV. , Mumbai:Sevak
Publication.
Rouette, H. K. (2001). Encyclopaedia of textile finishes. Berlin: Springer Verlag.

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Course Code Title Periods/week Marks Credits

USH SIIIP502 Fabric Structure and Construction 3 50 2


Fabric Structure and Construction
Objectives
• To source and identify different woven samples for analysis and testing.
• To construct fabrics through technique of weaving.
• To orient students to fe w fabric testing techniques.
Course Content: Periods
Unit I Yarn And Fabric Testing: 15
Calculation of the Weight of Warp and Weft of the Fabric, Fabric Thickness, Fabric
Count.
Yarn Count and Yarn Twist.
Unit II Sourcing And Identification Of Different Woven Samples 15
Analysis of Woven Samples for Design, Draft And Peg Plan and Other Particulars (5
Samples Under Each Type Of Weave)
Unit III Practical Warping and Weaving of Samples on Table Looms with Straight and 15
Transposed Draf ts
*Journal / Portfolio

Course Code Title Periods/week Marks Credits

USHSIIIP502 Fashion Illustration and Pattern Drafting 4 50 2

Objectives
• To teach students how to read elaborate styles and patterns.
• To equip students with the t echniques of advanced pattern designing through flat pattern construction.
Course content Periods
Unit I Basic Blocks: Adults bodice block, torso and dartlesssloper, lower block and sleeve 15
block (Revision) using anthropometric measurements.
Unit II Dart displacements and concealment techniques. 15
Fundamentals: Collars: Rever, Reversible, Shawl, Danton and Sports
Unit III Fundamentals: 15
Sleeves: Bell, Leg -o-mutton, Butterfly, Cap
Necklines: Raised, Polo and Cowl.
Unit IV Garments: 15
Katoricholi
Tops: Kurta/Shirt (male/ female)
*Journal / Portfolio with technical drawings

Course Code Title Periods/week Marks Credits

USHSIIIP502 Garment Construction and Draping 4 50 2

Objectives
• To acquaint students with the techniques and skills of garment construction through flat pattern.
• To make students competent to stitch garments with elaborate patterns.
Course Content Periods
Unit I Fundamentals: 15
Placke ts – Continuous Kurta placket
Collars - Sports, Shawl, Reversible, Rever, Shirt

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Unit II Fundamdentals: 15
Necklines – Raised, Cowl, Polo
Zip-Fly open, Zip without seam
Unit III Garments Upper wear 15
Katoricholi
Unit IV Garments Upper wear 15
Shirt/Kurta with concealment
*Journal / Portfolio with technical drawings

Course Code Title Periods/week Marks Credits

Part A: Design Concepts and Computer
3 50
2 Aided Designing
USHSIIIP501


Part B: Fieldwork/seminar/project 2 50
1


Part A: Design Concepts and Computer Aided Designing
Objective
• To teach manual techniques of embroidery.
Course Content Periods
Unit I Indian embroidery of different states do ne on samples: 15
Kasuti
Kantha
Chamba
Unit II Indian embroidery of different states done on samples: 15
Kashida
Zardozi
Chikankari
Unit III Indian embroidery of different states done on samples: 15
Gujarat and Rajasthan
Manipuri
Phulkari
*Journal / Portfolio
Part B: Fieldwork

Fieldwork involves students planning, preparing, organizing and conducting sessions/workshops in selected
set-ups in order to extend textile related skills to underprivileged and other sections of s ociety.

Page 11


T. Y. B. Sc. (HOME SCIENCE)

BRANCH III: TEXTILE AND FASHION TECHNOLOGY

SEMESTER VI

Course Code Title Internal Semester Total Periods/week Credits
Assessment End marks
Marks Examination
USHSIII601 Part A: Dyeing and 40 60 100 3 3
Printing
Part B: Historic Textiles 40 60 100 3
and Costumes
USHSIII602 Part A: Textile Testing and 40 60 100 3 3
Quality Control
Part B: Marketing and 40 60 100 3
Merchandising
USHSIII603 Fabric Structure and 40 60 100 3 3
Construction
USHSIIIP601 Dyeing and Printing __ 50 50 3 2

USHSIIIP602 Fabric Structure and __ 50 50 3 2
Construction
USHSIIIP603 Fashion Illustration and __ 50 50 4 2
Pattern Drafting
USHSIIIP604 Garment Construction and __ 50 50 4 2
Draping
USHSIIIP605 Part A: Design Concepts __ 50 50 3 3
and Computer Aided
Designing
Part B: __ 50 50 2
Fieldwork/seminar/project
800 34 20

Page 12

Course Code Title Periods/week Marks Credits

Part A: Dyeing and Printing 3 100 1
USHSIII601
Part B: Historic Textiles and Costumes 3 100 2


Part A: Dyeing and Printing

Objectives
• To create awareness of the different techniques used for printing of textiles.
• To gain knowledge of Chemistry of printing, their application, processes machines for different fabrics
and their fastness properties.
• To make students aware of recent developments in printing with emphasis on ecological concerns.

Course Content Period s
Unit I Printing: Introduction to printing 15
Novel methods of printing : Digital, flexography, inkjet, blotch, water mark, roller,
foam, bubble, air brush, electrostatic, photo printing, marble, warp printing, differential
and etc.
Unit II Speci alty printing : Rubber, khadi and etc. 15
Evaluation of fastness properties of printed textile material
Printing Auxiliaries
Unit III Garment Finishing 15
Ecological aspects of printing process (Banned chemicals for printing, eco -friendly
chemic als, auxiliaries and etc.), Effluent treatment.
Recent developments in printing
References
Cegarra, J. P. and Valladperas, J. (1992). The dyeing of textile manual, the scientific bases and the techniques of
application . Italy: NecovaOflito.
Ponting, K . G. (1981). A dictionary of dyes and dyeing . London: Bell and Hymen Ltd.
Rouette, H. K. (2001). Encyclopaedia of textile finishes . Berlin: Springer Verlag.
Shenai, V. A. (1985). Technology of dyeing: Technology of textile processing. Vol.VI. , Mumbai: Seva k
Publication.
Shenai, V. A. (1985). Technology of printing: Technology of textile processing. Vol. IV ,Mumbai: Sevak
Publication.
Shenai, V. A. (1998) Toxicity of dyes and intermediates. Mumbai: Sevak Publication.
Shenai, V. A. (1999) . Azo dyes: Facts an d figures. Mumbai: Sevak Publication.
Story, J. (1985). The Thames and Hudson manual of textile dyes and fabrics . London: Thames and Hudson.
Story, J. (1985). The Thames and Hudson manual of textile printing . London: Thames and Hudson.
Burkinshaw, S. M. (1 995). Chemical principles of synthetic fibre dyeing. Glasgow: Blackie Academic and
Professional.
Vigo, T. L (1997). Textile processing and properties, preparation, dyeing finishing and performance.
Amsterdam: Elsevier Sciences.
Lewis, D.M. (Ed). (1992) Wool dyeing . London: Society of Dyers and Colourist.
Gittenger, M. (1982) Master dyers of the world. Washington: The Textile Museum.
Shenai, V. A. and Saraf, N. (1991) Dictionary of textiles. Mumbai: Sevak Publication.
Prayag, R. S. (1989). Dyeing o f wool, silk and manmade fibres . Dharwad: Noves Data Corporation.
Srivastava, S. B. Recent process of textile bleaching, dyeing and finishing . New Delhi: SBP Consultants and
Engineers.
Gulrajani, M. L. and Gupta, S. (1990) Wool dyeing and printing . New De lhi: Department of Textile
Technology IIT.
David G, Sinclair, Roy, S. (1989). Giles laboratory course in dyeing (4th Ed.) London: Society of Dyers and
Colourist.
Koshy, T. D. (2001). Silk production and export management . New Delhi: A.P.H Publishing Corp oration.

Page 13

Part B: Historic Textiles and Costumes
Objectives
• To acquaint the students with the rich heritage of costumes of the world.
• To acquaint the students with the costumes of different centuries.
Course Content Periods
Unit I Costumes of 15
The ancient world : Egypt, Assyria, Etruscans, Rome
Middle ages 11th Century to 15th Century
Unit II Costumes of 16th – 20th Century 15
Unit III Costumes of 15
Europe from Byzantium to the 1800’s
Traditional costumes of the 1800’s
19th Century an tique civilizations
References
Boucher F. (1987) 2000 years of fashion: The history of costume and personal Adornment, New York: Harry
and Abrams Inc. publishers.
Dar, S. N. (1969) Costumes of India and Pakistan , D. B. Taraporewala Sons and Co, Bombay
Doreen Y. (1992 ) Fashion in the western world, 1500 -1900 , B T Batsford Ltd, London.
Fas, (1997) Fashion Design 1850 -1895 , The Pepin Press, Amsterdam.
Harris, J (1993) 5000 years of Textiles , British Museum, London.
Hart, A (1998) Historical Fashion in Det ail- The 17th and 18th Centuries , V andA.Publications, London .
Hill M H. (1987) The Evolution of Fashion 1066 to 1930 , B T Batsford Ltd, London.
LehnertGertoud, 2000, A history of Fashion in the 20th Century , KonemannVerlagsellschaftMbh,
Cologne. Peacock J. (1993) 20th Century Fashion - The Complete Source Book , Thames and Hudson
Ltd., London. Peacock J. (1997) Fashion Source book - The 1930's , Thames and Hudson Ltd., London.
Peacock J. (1997) Fashion Source book - The 1950's , Thames and Hudson Ltd., London .
Peacock J. (1997) Fashion Source book - The 1970's , Thames and Hudson Ltd., London.
Peacock J. (1998) Fashion Source book - The 1960's , Thames and Hudson Ltd., London.
Racinet, A (1998) The Historical encyclopaedia of costumes , Studio editions, London.Illu strat.
Racinet, A (2000) The history of European Costume: Period, Styles and Accessories, London: Collins and
Brown Ltd.
Rocinet A (2006) The Complete Costume History , Tashen, Koln.
Rothstein, N (ed) (1984 ) Four Hundred years of Fashion , V and A Publicati ons, London.
Seetling C, (2000) Fashion The Century of the Designer 1900 -1999 , KonemannVerlagsellschaftMbh,
Cologne. Turner, W. R. (1989) Folk and Festival Costumes of the World , B T Batsford Ltd., London.

Course Code Title Periods/week Marks Credits

Part A: Textile Testing and Quality Control 3 100 2
USHSIII602
Part B: Marketing and Merchandizing 3 100 1


Part A: Textile Testing and Quality Control
Objectives
• To make the students aware of the importance of textile and garment testing and quality control.
• To impart knowledge of the physical and mechanical properties of textiles and garments.
• To demonstrate the techniques and principles of testing physical and mechanical properties of textiles and
garments.
Course Content Periods
Unit I Fabric dimensions and properties (woven, knitted and non – woven) 15
Length, width, fabric count, weight and thickness
Air and water permeability
Shrinkage
Wrinkle resistance and crease recovery
Abrasion resistance and pilling re sistance, fabricstiffness, drapability, flammability

Page 14

Unit II Tensile strength 15
Definitions of stress, strain, initial modulus, elasticity, yield point
Tensile strength measurement of fibre, fibre bundle, yarn, skein and fabric.
Tensile strengt h testing instruments with their working principles of measurements –
CRT, CRL and CRE
Tear strength and bursting strength measurement
Unit III Garment testing : seam slippage, seam strength and puckering 15
Advances in textile testing and quality control
References
Angappan P. and Gopalkrishnan R., (2002), Textile testing , Mumbai: S. S. M. Institute of Technology.
Booth J. E., (1996), Principles of textile testing: An introduction to physical methods of testing textile fibres,
yarns and fabric s (6th Ed.). London: NewnesButterworths.
Collier B. J., (1999), Textile testing and analysis , New Jersey: Prentice Hall.
Grover E. B. and Hamby D. S., (1969), Handbook of textile testing and quality control , New Delhi: Wiley
Eastern Ltd.
Handbook of text ile testing, Bureau of Indian standards, (1990), Testing and grading of textile fibres , Part I,
New Delhi: Bureau of Indian Standards.
Handbook of Textile Testing, (1991), Testing and grading of textile fibres , Part III, New Delhi: Bureau of
Indian Standa rds.
Handbook of Textile Testing, Part IV, Identification of dyestuff and colour fastness on textile materials .
(1989), New Delhi: Bureau of Indian Standards.
Morton, W. E. andHearle, J. S., (1975), Physical properties of textile fibres , Heinmann: Textile
Institute. Shenai, V. A., (1980), Evaluation of textile chemicals , Mumbai: Sevak
Skinkle, J. H., (1972), Textile testing , Mumbai: Taraporevala.
Trotman, E. R. andTrotman, S. R., (1948), Textile analysis , Glasgow: Charles Griffin.
Wynne A., (1997), The mot ivate series – textiles , London: Macmillan Texts for Industrial Vocational and
Technical Education.

Part B: Marketing and Merchandizing
Objectives
• To help students acquire knowledge and understanding of the organization sector and merchandising.
• To hel p students understand entrepreneurships skills.
Course Content Periods
Unit I Merchandising : definitions, structure of merchandising functions, roles and 15
responsibilities, skills and merchandising as a career
Planning and Control
Quality Assur ance
E-Merchandising.
Unit II Organization of the textile industry : Public and private sectors, handlooms, 15
cooperatives, multinational companies.
Supply Chain Management
Unit III Entrepreneurship : skills, advantages, disadvantages. 15
References
Berkowitz. K., Hartley, R. (1994) Marketing ( 4th Ed)
Daver, R. S. Modern (1992) Marketing Management . Progressive Corporation
Diamond E. (2006) Fashion Retailing . New Jersey: Pearson Prentice Hall.
Donnellon J. (1999) Merchandizing Buying and Management , New York: Fairfield Publications.
Gandhi, R.S. Mehta, Talele, A.B. ( 1992) De-centralized sector of the Indian textile industry .
NICTAS Publication
Kale, N.G. (1997) Principles and practices of marketing . Mumbai:
VipulPrakashan. Kotler, P. (1998) Marketing Management . India: Prentice Hall.
Kunz G. (2005) Merchandizing: Theory Principles and Practice. New York: Fairfield Publications and
Practice.
Sengupta, S. (1990) Brand positioning strategies for competitive advantage . Tata
McGraw Singh (1989). Marketing and consumer behaviour . India: Deep and Deep.
Stanton W.J, Etzel, M.J., and Walker, B.J. (1994). Fundamental of marketing . 10th Ed. McGraw Hill

Page 15

Course Code Title Periods/week Marks Credits

USHSIII603 Fabric Structure and Constructi on 3 100 3

Objectives
• To help students learn various fabric construction techniques with reference to consumer and
technical textiles.
• To help students to understand the creation of basic and complex weaves including other methods
of creating visu al effects.
• To familiarize students with the various knitted, non -woven and knotted fabrics.
Course Content Periods
Unit I Knits – single, double, rachel, and their variations, properties and uses. 15
Unit II Non – wovens and multi components, types, properties and uses including felts 15
Unit III Other methods of fabric formation – knotting, tufting and multi components 15
Narrow width fabrics – labels, laces and etc.
Advances in fabric construction
References
Ajgaonkar. D.B. (1998) Knitti ng technology , Mumbai: Mumbai Universal publishing
corporation Black, M.E. (1966). The key to weaving New York: Macmillan.
Brown, R. (1978). Weaving, spinning and dyeing book . London: Routledge and Kegan Paul.
Corbman, B. P. (1983) Fibre to Fabric step by step weaving (6th Ed.) New York: McGraw Hill.
Fannin and Allen. A. (1979). Handloom weaving technology . New York: Van Nostrand Reinhold.
Grosicki, Z. J. (1980). Watson’s textile design and colour . London: Newness Butterworths. Hollen,
Norma. (1988). Textile s. (6th Ed) New York: Macmillan publishing company.
Kishore, Punett. (1990). Weaving technology in India – Jacquards . New Delhi.
Kulkarni, M. M. (1998). Weaving technology .Jalgaon: Vrinda publications.
Murray, R. (1981). The essential handbook of weaving. London: Bell and
Hyman. Nisbet, H. (1978). Grammar of textile design . Bombay: Taraporewala
Sons. Oelsner, G. H. (1982). A handbook of weaves , New York: Dover.
Plath, I. (1972). The craft of hand -weaving . New York: Clark’s Scribner’s Sons.
Sengupta, R. (1 982). Weaving calculations . Bombay: D.B. Taraporewala Sons.
Singh, R.B. (1989). Modern Weaving: Theory and Practice . Ahmedabad:
Mahajan. Spencer, D. (1989). Knitting Technology . Cambridge: Woodhead.
Teli, M.D. (1997). Weaving of specialist fabrics . Mumbai : Textile Associat5ion of India
Thrope, A. (1970). Elements of weaving: A complete introduction to the art and techniques . New York:
Doubleday.
ZnamieRowski, Nell. (1973). A complete introduction to the craft of weaving . London: Pan Bookes Ltd.

Course Co de Title Periods/week Marks Credits

USHSIIIP601 Dyeing and Printing 3 50 2

Objectives
• To introduce students to different techniques of printing of textiles.
• To make students aware of creative methods in printing.
• To source and analyze different types of printed fabrics.
Course Content Periods
Unit I Printing of different fabric composition using block with various styles (khadi – white 15
and golden, discharge – white and colour and blotch)
Making of screen and printing on differ ent fabric composition
Unit II Printing on fabric using various techniques marble, air brush and etc 15
Unit III Analysis of printed fabrics 15
*Journal / Portfolio

Page 16

Course Code Title Periods/week Marks Credits

USHSIIIP602 Fabric Structure and C onstruction 3 100 2

Objectives
• To source and identify different knitted samples for analysis and testing.
• To construct fabrics through techniques such as knitting, crochet, macramé and tufting.
Course Content Periods
Unit I Sourcing and Iden tification of different knitted samples (Minimum five under each 15
Category)
Unit II Constructing Fabrics Using: 15
Knitting (Manual – 5 Samples and/or Machine)
Tufting (Cut and Uncut Combined 1 Sample)
Unit III Constructing Fabrics Using: 15
Crochet (5 Samples)
Macramé (Various Knots)
*Journal / Portfolio

Course Code Title Periods/week Marks Credits

USHSIIIP603 Fashion Illustration and Pattern Drafting 4 100 2

Objectives
• To teach students how to read elaborate styles and patterns.
• To equip students with the techniques of advanced pattern designing through flat pattern construction.
Course content Periods
Unit I Skirt / culottes,; trousers (male / female) 15
Unit II Legwear: salwar, churidar, parallel / paja mas 15
Unit III Sleeves: Raglan, Drop -shoulder, Magyar sleeves 15
Unit IV Theme garment for party wear 15
*Journal / Portfolio with technical drawings

Course Code Title Periods/week Marks Credits

USHSIIIP604 Garment Construc tion and Draping 4 100 2

Objectives
• To acquaint students with the techniques and skills of garment construction through flat pattern.
• To acquaint students with the techniques and skills of draping.
• To make students competent to stitch garm ents with elaborate patterns.
Course Content Periods

Unit I Fundamentals: 15
Pockets – Velt, Bound
Zips – Fly open, zip without seam
Unit II Leg wear – Skirt / Culottes/ Churidar/ Salwar/Trouser 15

Unit III Theme garment 15
Unit IV Drapin g: Basic upper block and Basic lower block 15
*Journal / Portfolio with technical drawings

Page 17

Course Code Title Periods Marks Credits
/
Week
Part A: Design Concepts and Computer Aided Designing 3 50 2
USHSIIIP605
Part B: Field work 2 50 1


Part A: Design Concepts and Computer Aided Designing
Objectives
• To develop skills in manual techniques and computer for basic designing of weaves, prints and illustration
Course Content Periods
Unit I Illustration 15
Sketching of Cr oqui – mechanical, fleshed out (3 poses), mood board and designing of
any one garment
Rendering (5 fabrics)
Unit II Textile Designing 15
Basics of repeatlayouts for textile designs namely block, brick, ogee, diamond, drop,
mirror and their var iations (6 -9)
Designing of 5 – 6 layouts based on various repeats and themes, colour way and colour
separation of one layout
Unit III Demonstration in computer aided designing for weave structures and prints with different 15
repeats and colour c ombination
*Journal / Portfolio


Part B: Fieldwork

Fieldwork involves students planning, preparing, organizing and conducting sessions/workshops in selected
set-ups in order to extend textile related skills to underprivileged and other sections of so ciety.

Scheme of Examination
The performance of the learners shall be evaluated into two parts. The learner’s performance shall be
assessed by Internal Assessment with 40% marks in the first part by conducting the Semester End
Examinations with 60% marks in the second part. The allocation of marks for the Internal Assessment and
Semester End Examinations are as shown below: -

Internal assessment for Theory 40 %
Sr. No. Evaluation type Marks
1 One class test/ case study / online examination to be conduct ed in thegiven semester 20
2 One assignment based on curriculum to be assessed by the teacherconcerned 10
3 Active participation in routine class instructional deliveries 05
4 Overall conduct as a responsible learner, communication andleadership qualiti es in 05 organizing related academic activities

Semester End Theory Examination of 60 marks (three unit courses)
Duration: These examinations shall be of two and half hours duration.
Theory question paper pattern :
• There shall be four questions e ach of 15 marks. On each unit there will be one question andfourth
question will be based on entire syllabus.
• All questions shall be compulsory with internal choice within the questions. Eachquestion will be of
30 marks with options.
• Questions may be sub divided into sub questions as a, b, c, d and e, etc and the allocation of marks
depends on the weightage of the topic.

Page 18

Semester End Practical Examination of 50 marks (three/four unit courses) No Internal
Assessment Duration: These examinations shall be of three hours.

Sr. No. Evaluation type Marks
1 Laboratory work: Semester End Examination 40
2 Journal 05
3 Viva 05

Standard of Passing is as per the ordinances set by the University of Mumbai for the Credit Based Semester
and Grading System for the und ergraduate courses.